After my first eucalyptus bundling experiments a few weeks ago, I’ve been desperate to have another go. I had some scarves ready to dye and chose to compare bamboo, a cellulose fabric, and soya jersey, a protein fabric.
When I unrolled the bamboo scarf, the smell from the eucalyptus was incredible! I couldn’t believe how dark and rich the markings were. The bamboo fabric had produced apricot colours last time, so I was amazed by the reds!
The next day I reused the eucalyptus leaves and bundled them in soya/organic cotton fabric (50/50 blend) and added in a few fresh leaves, too. (Since there is some cotton in the fabric, I still pretreated it in my usual way in soya milk to help with the take up of colour.)
When I unrolled the fabric, the immediate result wasn’t as striking as with the bamboo but I liked the range of different colours. I noticed that the leaf imprints were captured in more detail on this fabric. The colour didn’t bleed through the layers of fabric like with the bamboo, so each print was more distinct. I suspect that more colour will remain on the soya fabric (compared to the bamboo) after rinsing, but I’ll have to wait and see.
The reason I was keen to try soya fabric is because it is a protein fibre like wool and silk, but of course it is plant derived. As I am vegan I do not use animal products of any kind, but I do appreciate that protein fibres absorb plant dyes better than cellulose fibres, like cotton and bamboo. Soya fabric seems to be a way around this moral issue and enables me to test out protein fibres.
Some vegans use “peace silk” where the silk worms are not killed, but from what I understand, the farming of silk worms to produce silk even in this way is far from cruelty free and still involves the exploitation of living creatures.
The bamboo fabric on the left has produced pinks and reds, which I would describe as more summery colours, and the soya blend on the right is more autumnal.
These scarves will be for sale in a few weeks. I don’t rinse fabric for a few weeks in order to help with the fastness of the colours. It’s a long process but it’s worth it!
I was intrigued to find out if bundle dyeing with avocado skin would make the same pinks that were produced in the avocado dye bath. And would the addition of rusty iron produce purples? I really needed to find out!
I laid out some defrosted avocado skin onto a length of fabric and folded it in half, then rolled it around a rusty rod and tied it up really tightly. It was steamed for about 2 hours.
The fabric is a blend of soya and organic cotton. Soya is a protein based plant fibre, so it is interesting to dye with as it should dye like other protein fibres like silk and wool. I still pretreated the fabric in soya milk and left it to cure for two weeks, due to the cotton content in the fabric.
Well, it is without doubt the strangest pattern I’ve ever dyed, but it is quite intriguing to look at. The dark areas are from the rust reacting with the avocado skin. The colours produced from bundle dyeing are completely different to making a dye bath ‘soup’ and straining it.
I had a stem of dried eucalyptus leaves waiting to be used, so I decided to experiment with bundle dyeing for the first time. I used bamboo fabric that was pretreated in soya milk and left to cure for around a week.
My son loved laying the leaves onto the fabric as I rolled up the bundle. He saw what I was doing and rather than stop him from touching it, I just let him get involved and he had so much fun.
Below is the result of steaming for one hour. I couldn’t believe my eyes as I unrolled the fabric!
I reused the same leaves in a second bundle with new fabric to see if the second steaming would extract even more colour, or perhaps different colours. This is an idea that I read about in one of India Flint’s books.
The colour was just as beautiful as the first bundle and there were flashes of yellow this time.
The leaves were used a third time.
I was amazed how much colour could be extracted from just a handful of leaves. Even the third print produced a pretty pattern.
Below are the three experiments. The first bundle is at the bottom and I discovered that the second steaming (middle) seemed to produce the deepest corals with the greatest range of colour.
Bundle dyeing, or eco printing as it’s also known, is definitely the most economical way of plant dyeing as such a small quantity of plant matter is needed.
In contrast, when extracting colour into a liquid dye bath, a 1:1 ratio of plant material to fabric is usually used, and a lot of colour is ‘wasted’ as it never attaches to the fabric and ends up poured away at the end of the process. When making a ‘dye soup’, the water acts as a middle man and holds the colour, but in bundle dyeing there is no middle man; the colour transfers directly from the plant into the fibre, with no colour wasted in the process. Also I feel that I used much less water steaming the bundles than I would in a dye bath, although I would need to actually measure the amounts to be certain.
After my first bundle dyeing experiment I am now hooked and can’t wait to do more!
These simple patterns were created by painting with rusty iron water. It’s so much fun seeing the water bleed across the fabric and change colour!
I’ve been walking past this bush of berries for the past few years and whilst flicking through Jenny Dean’s book ‘Wild Colour’ I recognised them and learnt that they are called mahonia berries. I went back the next day to pick a small amount of berries to experiment making a dye.
The berries give their colour up very quickly and the fabric also takes on the colour quickly. I’ve read that this is a sign that the colour will fade on fabric so this may not be the best dye to use for anything that will be washed, but it was fun experimenting.
This dye is very pH sensitive and the lilac turns to grey when rinsed in tap water. The swatches below show the results of various modifications such as iron water and vinegar.
Given how dandelion flowers stain hands, I was interested to see how well they worked as a dye.
I’ve been collecting dandelions for weeks and keeping them in the freezer. When the time came to use them I gently heated them for an hour to extract the colour. I left them to soak over night then squeezed the liquid through a muslin cloth.
The dye liquid was actually a light brown and not at all yellow and I wonder if fresh dandelions would yield more of a yellow. The fabric was mordanted in soya milk and left to cure for a few weeks before dyeing.
This cotton voile scarf is a lovely caramel colour but it was an awful lot of trouble and I’m not sure if I’ll repeat it again as I can produce a similar colour from alder cones which I suspect will be more lightfast due to the tannins in alder cones. It was fun dyeing with dandelions, nevertheless!
Avocados are probably my favourite food ever, so it hasn’t been too much of a hardship to eat lots of avocados over the past few weeks! I saved the skins (and also the stones for future use) and stored them in the freezer.
The fabric was mordanted in soya milk, left to cure for over a month. The avocado skins were soaked and heated in water and after 24 hours, the mush was squeezed through a muslin cloth to reveal a beautifully deep red dye.
I used a 1:1 ratio of avocado skins to weight of fabric, but I could see that there was still a lot of dyeing potential in the dye bath so I dyed two more scarves afterwards.
The fabrics left to right are bamboo silk, organic cotton and hemp/cotton jersey. I also dyed another cotton scarf that’s not pictured. The markings are all created through various methods of tying and clipping to form resists.
The fabric swatch on the top left was modified in iron water which produced a beautiful deep mauve colour.
I am currently carrying out lightfastness tests on the aldercone and avocado skin dye. The swatch at the bottom on the right is madder mordanted with aluminium acetate as a control.